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IT: Issue 11
Masjidi
The Pink City Of Morocco PDF Print E-mail
Written by Armani Ahmed   
Wednesday, 21 June 2006
Marrakech, a city with a stunning backdrop of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains is nicknamed 'Pink City' of Morocco. Why is this? The first thing you actually notice on arrival is that everything really is pink! The buildings, houses and shops are all in varying colours of the same colour used from the local red earth.

It can also be nicknamed 'Cat City' as the healthy and friendly creatures are everywhere. This reminds one of the story when the Prophet Muhammad (SAW) was preparing to go for salaah but his cat Muezza was asleep on the sleeve of his robe. Rather than disturb the cat's serene slumber, he cut off the sleeve and went for salaah. When the Prophet (SAW) returned, Muezza was awake and bowed in thanks, Rasul'Allah (SAW) stroked him three times and Muezza was given a place in Jannah. For this reason you will reason rahma and love for the cats scattered throughout the city and its mosques.

HISTORY

Marrakech is a lively metropolis, once an Imperial city and without doubt capital of the South. It is Marrakech that at the dawn of the nation's history gave the name - Morocco or Maghrib in Arabic It was founded in 1062 by the Almoravides, a nomadic tribe of Berbers of the desert, who concentrated on spreading Islam to the southern Sahara and black Africa. In the 12th century, the city was taken over by the Saadians who had originated from Arabia. Marrakech had become a political, economic and cultural centre but not always for the better.

It had mighty kings waging war over it and a line of dynasties inheriting it one after the other. On the other hand, sages, craftsmen, architects, painters and sculptors of all ages left their mark of excellence with magnificent pieces of building and landscaping.

Moving into the 21st century, the city retains much of its tradition and gives a real flavour of authentic Morocco - it is a living display of how the country was many moons ago, in fact it is where many Spaniards come to discover their eliminated history. They come to see how their ancestors must have lived in Muslim Iberia - it is a personal journey of acquainting themselves with their Muslim roots which has a distinct African feel about it too.

You will witness hordes of other tourists from all over Europe, from other Muslim countries, as far away as Thailand, Japan and the USA. This goes to show that a Muslim country can be a hot tourist spot. Tourism has built the local economy and helps preserve the grand monuments.

THE CITY

Marrakech has two main areas, the old city or medina, and Gueliz which is the French extention of the city.

OLD CITY

The medina was originally captured within high mounted walls and gates, with a large square in the centre. The square is called Djamaa el Fna meaning 'Assembly of the Dead' because it was the place for public executions until over a century ago but today is associated with the liveliness of it, not lack of it.
During the day there are henna artists offering to paint hands, feet or even face, and stalls that sell very cheap pints of freshly-squeezed orange juice. Shoppers bargain for spices and groceries whilst tourists hunt for souvenirs.

Following maghrib, it is a scene straight out of the movies, a world of frenzied motion with lights starting to twinkle and transforming the square from a retailers square to a circus square so be prepared for the crowds like in the January sales looking in awe at entertainers such as acrobats, jugglers, fire-eaters and many others.]

Koutoubia Masjid

Koutoubia is taken from kutubiyin meaning booksellers who were established around the mosque in its early days. It is the local landmark, literally as it's 77metres minaret is practically visible from everywhere in the city.

The construction of Koutoubia started in 1158 by Abd el Mumene, the first Almohad ruler and was completed by his grandson Sultan Yacoub Mansour in 1190. It stands on the site of an original mosque which had to be destroyed because it was not correctly aligned to the Qiblah.

The square tower is a prime example of Muslim architecture and was later copied in the Giralda in Seville, Spain. The interior lacks any decoration on its white walls, giving it simple elegance. It is one of the largest mosques in Africa with a jamaah capacity of 20,000. You'll feel supreme entering Koutoubia, like other mosques in Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed access (except for Hassan II mosque in Casablanca, which offers guided tours and the ancient Tin Mal mosque at Tizi n'Test which is closed for reconstruction).

According to the Cultural Department of the Moroccan Embassy, the reasoning behind this is that a Muslim enters a mosque for ibadah, and the requirement to perform ibadah is the wudhu. Therefore, these are acts that non-Muslims obviously do not follow therefore the 'NO ENTRY' sign is posted.

Saadian Tombs

The tombs represent the most perfect examples of Saadian art where Kings and young Princes lie. The building has a plain façade but as soon as you step inside its quite a shock to see such delicate beauty decorated with gold leaf clad cedar panels, ivory and coloured marble.

Bahia Palace

The splendid Bahia Palace or the Palace of Brilliance was residence of Bou Ahmed, a slave turned vizier. It took 1000 craftsmen six years to build to Bou Ahmed's idea of brilliance or bahia. You will see apartments and a council chamber grouped around a courtyard of gracious colonnades, fountains and a green white mosaic floor. Following Bou Ahmed's death in 1900, the palace was ransacked of all ornaments and furniture and his family driven out of town. Today the palace remains in its empty state but is an interesting example of 19th century Andalusian architecture.

NOTE: entry fee to all sites is 10-15 dirham (15dhm = £1).

NEW CITY

The French arrived in 1912 and at this point in time the city was in a sad state of neglect. The new rulers built modern Marrakech known as Gueliz along the western walls of the old city. In a Parisian fashion, it is traversed by wide boulevards lined on both sides with lemon and orange trees.

The French implemented a policy on preservation by renovating and maintaining Islamic buildings - on the contrary to their European counterparts who had colonised other Muslims lands. Today both new and old Marrakech go hand-in-hand to form one city as opposed to other cities such like Fes where there is a bold contrast between the new and old.

PLACES TO SHOP

For retail therapy - Marrakech is the place for the shopper. The souk adjacent to Djamaa el Fna is a network of winding streets, full of skilled artisans offering amazing collections of traditional handicrafts.
The souk is divided into zones of specialties and trades such as leather shops, metal, brass, silver, goldsmiths, wood and hakims for herbal medicine. Haggling is the norm so don't hesitate to bargain with the merchant, you'd be surprised at the real price you pay, here's a tip offer 60% less of the price then compromise somewhere in the middle.

You'll become a professional haggler in no time but don't exercise this newly acquired skill in fixed price government run artisan stores or at the duty free, which strangely only accepts Euros, not the local currency.

QUIET SPOTS

Everything in Marrakech isn't necessarily on the go. It is typical to be in the midst of crowds and donkeys one moment and the next, in a place where you can hear a needle drop. You'll notice this when you enter the Bahia Palace which is appreciated through an avenue of orange trees, germaniums, datura, jasmine and a few lofty palms. The enchanting scent of the trees and singing of birds is absolute bliss.

To get even closer to nature without needing to leave the city, visit the Menara Gardens which offers tranquillity. Peaks of the Atlas Mountain in view, olive groves steeped in history, palm trees rooted in the earth and a well proportioned Menara pavilion mirrored in the quiet still water which stands before it, you can just stand there for hours absorbing the beauty, in fact you will have to stand unfortunately as there are no seats for the contemplative visitor.

WHAT NOT TO MISS

Horse Carriage

A pleasant way to travel around Marrakech is in horse carriage, locally known as a caleche. This will help you find your bearings of the city and allow you to voyage through the narrow streets cars cannot enter. There is a long line of caleches opposite the Koutoubia and other places of interest.

Hamam

After all that touring, relieve those aching limbs by a visit to one of the many hot and steamy hamams dotted all over the city for a good scrub and massage. Bear in mind quality and quantity factors, local hamam's start at £2, others can average £30, and honestly the price really does determine the service.

Eat

'The way to a man's heart' - well let your nose guide you to the pungent smoked filled air and mouth watering aromas. There is row upon row of outdoor food stalls in Djama el Fna where you can eat at incredibly low prices, and to top it off the service of the waiters is friendly and jovial. On the other end of the catering scale, fine dining is abound particularly in Gueliz whether you have an appetite for the romantic, traditional, or simply a taste of home made style cooking, you'll find it here.

WHEN TO GO

The best times to go are spring and autumn when the temperatures average 20-25°C. Outside these seasons expect to encounter either extreme cold or extreme heat. It might be safe to avoid April as it is sandstorm season, and in the winter it is probably the closest place to the UK that offers winter sun nevertheless it can get as cold as back home. Even better, the nearest Muslim country to the UK just three and a half hours flight away, it provides a real religious atmosphere during festivals so is ideal to celebrate Eid in.

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 21 June 2006 )
 
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